Blocking (not a video)
“How do I block this?” That’s the knitting question I get more than any other. So, here we go…
The situation – you have finished knitting, seaming, and weaving in the ends. Now you’re ready to block the piece, which will transform your caterpillar knitting into a beautiful butterfly. This is also how you will hand wash your knitting every time it needs it.
Before we start, are you working with multiple yarn colors? Stripes, borders, fair isle, etc? If so, there is a chance that the dyes will bleed when they get wet, so you want to set the dyes before you follow the instructions below. Fill the sink with cold water and about a cup of white vinegar. Soak your knitting for about a half-hour, and rinse to get out the pickle smell. You can move on to blocking while it’s still wet, no prob.
Step 1:
Clean sink.
Step 2:
Fill with lukewarm water and add wool wash. I prefer the wool washes that don’t require rinsing, like Eucalan or Soak.
Step 3:
Send your knitting for a swim. Give it a few good squeezes to work the wool wash into the fibers.
Step 4:
Go find something else to do for a half-hour or so while it soaks.
Step 5:
Drain the sink, and gently squeeze out the excess water.
Step 6:
Spread an old towel out on the floor. (I recommend an old towel, because there still may be some color bleeding.) Gently lay the knitted piece out on the towel, being careful not to allow the weight of the piece to stretch it out while it’s wet and heavy.
Step 7:
Roll-up your knitting inside the towel like a burrito.
Step 8:
Step all over it. Give it a quarter turn, step all over it again. This is a way of squishing out the extra water without wringing. Note: do not do this in stocking feet. Ask me how I know this.*
Step 9:
Blocking boards are awesome, but not totally necessary. Find a place for your knitting to dry WHERE YOUR PETS CANNOT GO. That’s the only steadfast rule. You can ask me how I know this tidbit, too.** Spread out your knitting to measurements, and pin if necessary. Bonus if there is a ceiling fan in the room.
The piece will dry exactly as you shape it, so be sure to square-out the corners and smooth the stitches. If you’re blocking something that is double-thick (like a sweater), flip it over once the top side is dry.
More notes:
- Since you, my friend, are a careful and smart knitter, you knit and blocked a swatch before you started knitting, right? That means there won’t be any nasty surprises like out-of-control stretching when the piece gets wet. Good for you!
- I have found superwash wool to be the most unpredictable fiber when it comes to blocking. Be SURE to block your swatch.
- These instructions are primarily for wool, but you can use them to block any fiber.
- Like I said, you’ll use these instructions every time you hand wash your knitting, which sounds like a lot of work. The truth is, wool doesn’t need washing all that often. I live in a warm climate, and I really only wash my wool sweaters once at the end of the cold season every year.
*I’ve ended up with wet socks more than once while stepping all over the towel burrito.
**When dogs and cats smell wet wool, they will be convinced that there is a rain-soaked sheep in the house. They will dig through your wet knitting, trying to find this tiny sheep.
Great post, Staci. Quick question – where did you get your blocking board? I’ve look in a few places and have only found cheap ones. Yours is much nice then the ones I have been able to find.
See you soon!
Comment by Kelly — July 27, 2010 @ 1:42 pm
Tiny sheep. That’s a funny image.
Thanks for the smile.
Comment by zeghsy — July 27, 2010 @ 1:49 pm
Hi Kelly – I should have known to answer the blocking board question before you asked it, because I get that question a lot, too.
I got my blocking board on eBay, but I don’t see any listings for the good kind right now. Here is a link to a good one:
http://www.yarn.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/_/Blocking-Board/productID/ebf1267e-57c1-4c95-8e58-c335c570ce2c/categoryID/5f761cd5-2dae-4672-acec-d2b56a5d2d70/?gclid=CPev1JzKjKMCFRxinAod5zYDmQ
Here’s what you want in a blocking board:
1. SPACE. Buy the biggest one you can find, the 33×51 size has a grid of 48×30 printed on it. I think that is the biggest available.
2. Buy a folding board with handles
3. Make sure you can pin into it
4. You want one with a printed grid
Hope that helps!
S t a c i
Comment by s t a c i — July 27, 2010 @ 2:55 pm
Once again you have come to the rescue. Thank you for taking the time to post all of your tips and tricks.
Comment by Vickie — July 28, 2010 @ 5:46 am
I just blocked a shawl and some socks, but when it came time to squeeze out the water, I placed each piece in my salad spinner. It only took a few cycles in there to get a good amount of the water out. Of course, I realize that doesn’t work with a lot of knits, just lacy things that are compressible and small knits like socks, gloves, mittens, hats, and scarves. Sweaters still need to be squeezed like crazy.
I had to buy a second salad spinner because my salad was getting linty.
Comment by Frank — July 28, 2010 @ 12:15 pm
[...] hatte eigentlich gedacht, wenn sie in kaltem Wasser liegt, würden die Katzen nicht rangehen, aber Staci hatte wohl Recht: wenn Katzen feuchte Wolle riechen, denken sie, im Haus sei irgendwo ein regennasses Schaf, und sie [...]
Pingback by Wilde weihnachtliche Walderdbeeren? « Your Friendly Neighborhood Lorelei — August 2, 2010 @ 11:32 am
Staci — I am getting ready to block my Big Bad Baby Blanket. I’ve never blocked anything before and am having mild anxiety over it, so this post is very helpful!
Anyway, I knit this blanket with Superwash yarn, and a lady on Ravelry told me I could just wash and dry it as instructed on the yarn and it should be fine. What are your thoughts on this? I kind of think blocking might be better to even out the stitches (they’re kind of wonky when it switches from knits to purls). Thanks!!
Carly
Comment by Carly — August 23, 2010 @ 1:39 pm