November 2nd, 2011

Learn to Knit a Men’s Sweater

Finally, something for the guys in a pattern + video tutorial! While my original sketches for this included cables, a shawl collar, buttons, stripes, (and more); masculine feedback on the design helped me to edit it down to something that even the most conservative dresser will want to wear. (And just enough going on to keep it interesting for the knitter.)

Skill level – Most of my patterns/video tutorials are for beginners and advanced beginners, this one is not. I have listed this pattern as “intermediate”. This pattern includes a video tutorial, but it is not appropriate for beginning knitters. Before taking on this project, I suggest that you have previous sweater knitting experience (or at least lots of shaped knitting experience), and plenty of experience with reading patterns. If you are unsure, watch some of the video to see if this project is appropriate for your skill level. Additionally, while I provide as much pattern support as I can, I cannot help with pattern modifications.

This pattern includes links to eight instructional videos to walk you through the tricky parts of working the pattern. You can view the videos for free at the bottom of this post.

The details:
Sizes: Small, Medium, Large, XLarge, XXLarge [to fit actual chest measurements of 34 (38, 42, 46, 50)”]
Needles: Size 6 US circular or straight needles, size 7 US 24 or 32” circulars, size 7 US double pointed needles. Also, size 7 US 16” circular needles are optional, but very nice to have for the sleeves.
Yarn: Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Tweed in Farmhouse Heather, 12 (12, 14, 16, 17) skeins. Or this many yards of any worsted yarn: 1300 (1400, 1550, 1700, 1850).
Additional Materials: clippie marker, 4 ring stitch markers, 12” zipper, bias tape (optional), knit picker tool (also called a snag fixer) for installing the zipper
Gauge: 5 stitches per inch in stockinette

This pattern is available in three different formats, each includes links to 8-part video tutorial:

1. PDF Pattern, traditional and printable. $8.00 via PayPal

2. Amazon Kindle digital download (suitable for Kindle devices and devices that use the Kindle app): $7.00 US

3. eReader (For non-Kindle eReaders, like Sony eReader and Barnes & Noble Nook, or any device using the Google Play Books app) $7.20 US


  1. I’m excited about trying this! I just hope I have the patience to finish it! LOL

    Comment by Lauren — November 2, 2011 @ 12:16 pm

  2. WOW, will go out tomorrow to buy wool! gotta get started!

    Comment by Marcelo — November 2, 2011 @ 1:11 pm

  3. I totally want to make one of these now. It looks like that’s raglan shaping for the shoulders, right? And thanks for showing that zipper technique!

    Will I look as handsome as the model when it’s finished? 😉

    Comment by Steven — November 2, 2011 @ 1:35 pm

  4. I like cables and shawl collars too, but I think your masculine feedback was spot on – I do believe Tom would wear this…if I could convince him that it would be cold enough here in the winter to actually need it. May make it anyway. Really nice wearable design, S t a c i.

    Comment by Julia — November 2, 2011 @ 1:49 pm

  5. Love It! My big problem is who I’m I going to make this for….one of my three sons or the hubbie!

    Comment by Belinda — November 2, 2011 @ 6:28 pm

  6. FINALLY!!!!!!!!! I need to find the right kind of yarn… and get the pattern downloaded!!!! Thanks Staci!!!

    Comment by Buzz — November 3, 2011 @ 12:25 am

  7. A big thank you. Got the pattern and watchted the videos. Just need to finish my cardigan…… Really wanting to start this 1 Dec, so will get yarn all sorted for then. I like to do one thing at a time! Patterns great, thanks Staci for the videos.
    ps for my hubbie he wants a dark one and a light one!!

    Comment by Ginny — November 3, 2011 @ 4:30 am

  8. Great Jumper..
    Who is the foxy model?

    Comment by Michelle — November 3, 2011 @ 7:41 am

  9. Michelle – the model for the men’s sweater is my friend Parker. He’s usually behind the camera, not in front of it, since he’s the guy who shoots and produces my videos.

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — November 3, 2011 @ 8:29 am

  10. Staci,
    Just wanted to stop and say thank you for all the effort, time, and care you put into these videos. My “One Year Anniversary” for knitting is coming up in December and I have come to your site many times over the course of my learning. :) my husband will be glad to see something for him on the needles soon….just have to get over my need for a quick – fix. :) Thanks again!!

    Comment by Kelli — November 3, 2011 @ 7:09 pm

  11. the technique u demonstrated 2 join the front of the sweater looks like the three needle bind-off.

    Comment by Michelle W. — November 3, 2011 @ 7:40 pm

  12. Thank you, thank you, thank you, Staci! You are the absolute best!

    Comment by David M. — November 3, 2011 @ 9:26 pm

  13. What a great sweater, and just love your instructions for placing the zipper into the neckline.

    Comment by Barbara — November 4, 2011 @ 2:47 pm

  14. Your friend is handsome!

    Thanks for the video!


    Comment by Cintia Santos — November 4, 2011 @ 6:49 pm

  15. Thanks Staci (& Parker). Great job by both of you, as usual.

    Comment by Kim — November 5, 2011 @ 12:48 pm

  16. Getting ready to get yarn for this but since we live in MS I was thinking cottom instead of wool. Would something like knitpicks comfy cotton work? Hate to put in alot of work for something that isnt going to hang right.

    Comment by Anna — November 8, 2011 @ 1:16 pm

  17. i just ordered and highlighted the kindle version! can’t wait for the yarn to come in so i can start knitting. goal: finish before the holidays so my beau can model my work :)

    Comment by colleen — November 13, 2011 @ 8:22 pm

  18. Thanks so much for providing this tutorial, Staci. I think my husband will like this pattern. I plan to get started on this very soon! I’m excited to work on placing a zipper!! LOL.

    Comment by Brigette — November 18, 2011 @ 4:57 pm

  19. thanks
    i don’t know how i thank you for this video i searching in the internet to found some like it i am try to knit a sweater for my boyfriend and you help me allot in it
    i am sorry for my bad English because i am Egyptian

    Comment by marwa kamal — December 8, 2011 @ 4:51 am

  20. Some of us guys like “cables, a shawl collar, buttons, stripes, (and more)” 😉 In fact, prefer them!

    Comment by Mark — January 25, 2012 @ 10:41 am

  21. I like that, too, Mark! Maybe my next men’s sweater pattern will have more of this stuff!


    Comment by s t a c i — January 25, 2012 @ 11:20 am

  22. […] week, so I’m pacing myself.  I found a great video tutorial plus pattern for this sweater at As a novice, I really appreciate the clear video instructions that are to be used in conjunction […]

    Pingback by Valentine’s Day Approaches – Are You Ready? | contadinak — January 31, 2012 @ 11:08 am

  23. Hi Staci ! I first found your site when I was wanting to learn how to make socks! Well I am making and socks and so much more. It has been invaluable to me in learning so much I can’t even tell you! I had not knitted for many years and really never got beyond scarfs and there is so much to learn and you demonstrate and teach beautifully! Thanks again sweet sister you are doing a great thing.

    Comment by julie — March 3, 2012 @ 7:29 pm

  24. […] cute men’s sweater pattern that I have purchased from  I love this pattern so far!  Staci’s patterns come with videos, and I find this to be a […]

    Pingback by Catching Up :) | Light Pink Sugar — March 4, 2012 @ 10:24 am

  25. Great series Staci. I am making one right now for hubby. It strikes me that, in a superwash merino, this a great standard for a ski sweater. I’m talking really skiing, where you get hot and need to open the neck or where its really cold and you need to be zipped up. Haven’t found a pattern for my skiing 5 year old granddaughter and wonder if this can be converted for her. How about that sample you are using? Do you have any advice for me in converting it – I have been knitting about a year and it will be uncharted waters for me.

    Comment by Nancy — June 4, 2012 @ 11:00 am

  26. I purchased the pattern for the men’s sweater and tried to use the YouTube links. I received back a message from You Tube that these videos were no longer available. Your suggestion please. Carol Forister

    Comment by Carol Forister — June 4, 2012 @ 11:09 am

  27. My keying error — found them. Thank you. Carol

    Comment by Carol — June 4, 2012 @ 11:21 am

  28. Hi Nancy – thanks for the note. Sorry – resizing a pattern necessitates starting from scratch to rewrite the pattern. From my FAQ page –

    Q: Staci, I’ve knit your (pattern), and I’d like to modify it to fit other sizes. Can you help me?
    A: Most of my patterns and tutorials are designed to teach the skills and techniques you need to knit that item (socks, sweaters, etc.). Once you’ve finished a tutorial, you have what you need to know to move on to all kinds of similar patterns, available in all sizes. I’m sorry – resizing a pattern is not a quick or simple thing.

    Hopefully you can find a pattern that is similar, and already sized to fit your granddaughter.
    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — June 4, 2012 @ 11:54 am

  29. Hello Staci

    You talk about worsted weight yarns in your patterns .. I’m in England and I have looked for worsted weight but carnt find it. I have also looked in my knitting books to see if it has a conversion or explanation and I carnt find anything . Can you explain what it is and what I need to buy .. Especially for this sweater pattern .. Thanks

    Comment by Chris — July 2, 2012 @ 3:29 pm

  30. Hi Chris – yes, I address this on my FAQ page. A US/UK yarn weight conversion chart can be found here:

    Hope that helps!
    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — July 2, 2012 @ 5:40 pm

  31. I can’t wait to get this started! Thanks Staci! You’re the best!

    Comment by MattyP — September 5, 2012 @ 12:56 pm

  32. Just bought this through Knit Picks — I have the yarn, a nice barn yarn red, and will be able to get started tonight! I’ve looked for a long time for a sweater pattern for my hubby — one that combined simple lines (nothing to fussy for him) but with some detail (nothing too boring for me). The written directions and video are a really useful combination for creating a unique knitting experience. What fun!

    Comment by Sharilyn — September 7, 2012 @ 1:28 pm

  33. Hi. I live in Scotland and I was wondering if I could buy some of your sweater patterns but sent by mail?

    Comment by Anne — September 12, 2012 @ 2:47 am

  34. Hi Ann – here is an excerpt from my Frequently Asked Questions page:

    Q: I don’t have a PayPal account. Can I buy patterns with a money order or check in the mail?
    A: Sorry, I’m not set up to take payments that way. You don’t have to have a PayPal account to purchase patterns. You can use PayPal with your credit card without opening an account.

    Please let me know if you have any other questions!
    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — September 12, 2012 @ 8:42 am

  35. Hi Staci. What I was wondering was do you do printed patterns that are sent out by mail? Sorry I didn’t make myself clear. I love all your video’s your such a great knitter!!!

    Comment by Anne — September 12, 2012 @ 1:05 pm

  36. Hi Staci. Can you do the whole sweater on circular needles? If you can what lengths would I need for the bits thats worked in double pointed and also the bit that can be done on straight needles or circular needles? I can’t wait to get started!

    Comment by Anne — September 14, 2012 @ 4:17 am

  37. Hi Anne – yes, the whole sweater can be done on circular needles. Here is what I list:

    Needles: Size 6 US circular or straight needles, size 7 US 24 or 32” circulars, size 7 US double pointed needles. Also, size 7 US 16” circular needles are optional, but very nice to have for the sleeves.

    The size 6 circulars or straights can be 24″ or 32″ circulars. The double-pointed needles for the sleeves can be knit in any length of circular needle, provided you use the magic loop method to do it. (I demonstrate this in some tutorials, and I have a technique video on this coming out soon.)

    Hope that helps!
    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — September 14, 2012 @ 7:02 am

  38. Dear, Staci.

    Lol, I knew you were good and now I know you are brilliant. Thanks. I am stressed no longer.

    Comment by Tanya — November 6, 2012 @ 10:32 pm

  39. my daddy loves sweaters, but i’m only ten years old! how do i knit this much?

    Comment by dban — November 17, 2012 @ 10:11 am

  40. thank you….
    i love all your work
    i did not speek english very well i hope you will understend me
    i whant to lern how to knit neckband from up to doun of sweete
    thank you…have a good day

    Comment by fler — November 20, 2012 @ 7:16 pm

  41. Dear Staci
    I’ve purchased this pattern via Amazon as a Kindle. Is there any way I can convert it to pdf so I can print it?…
    Or is there any other way to print it?..
    Please help me!!!

    Comment by Fotini — November 23, 2012 @ 6:27 pm

  42. Hi Fotini – the eBook files are for reading on a computer or mobile device, and cannot be converted to PDFs or printed. Purchasing the PDF version of the pattern allows you to watch it on your computer/mobile device and print it.

    Hope that helps!

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — November 23, 2012 @ 8:20 pm

  43. I was ready to start on my sweater, but was wondering if the gauge of 5 stiches per inch is for the size 6 or size 7 needle. This may sound silly but I am a pretty novice knitter.

    Comment by Edwina — November 25, 2012 @ 4:53 pm

  44. Hi Edwina – the gauge is for the needle you use on the body of the sweater, so it’s for the size 7.
    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — November 25, 2012 @ 7:30 pm

  45. Thanks for the quick answer. I made a swatch with a #6 and got 5 stitches to the inch so I guess I will use size 5 and size 6 needles instead.

    Comment by Edwina — November 25, 2012 @ 9:04 pm

  46. Hi Staci,

    I can’t wait to try the sweater for my husband! I have been enjoying the whole process of knitting and it is due to your helping me with your videos. And your friend,Parker, should model more often!

    Comment by Wendy — December 7, 2012 @ 2:00 pm

  47. Hi Staci
    I just purchased your pattern and watched the tutorial before I get started. My question is about the sizing. I’m doing this for my son. He measures a 36″ chest but he is very slight build with a 28″ waist and only about 5’5″. I’m afraid if I make him the 38″ chest with the 2″ of positive ease he will be swimming but I’m taking your warning about the 34″ being the actual chest size. I did my gauge swatch and I am right on at size 7 needles. Can you give me some advice on how I should proceed so this will fit? Larger needles and a size 34? smaller needles and a size 38? I’m still new to sweater making and I appreciate the help. Your videos are great.

    Comment by Pam — December 30, 2012 @ 8:59 am

  48. Hi Pam – if you’re using a wool or wool/blend yarn, the answer is pretty easy. :)

    You can knit the smaller size, and then when you go to wash and block it, you can easily work in an extra inch or so of ease. Wool is awesome that way!

    Hope that helps!
    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — December 30, 2012 @ 9:15 am

  49. Hi stack thank you I LIKE your pattern s easy to follow,can I use 70% merino wool and 30% baby alpaca on this PATTERN I’m WANT to make it for my son.Thanks

    Comment by Elizabeth — January 12, 2013 @ 3:36 pm

  50. Elizabeth – yes, that fiber blend will work very nice for this sweater. Really any animal fiber blend will work perfectly.
    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — January 13, 2013 @ 9:40 am

  51. Are these video instructions ( shown here on your website) complete,or should you purchase the pattern for this man’s sweater ? I would love to make this sweater for my husband.

    I have learned a great deal from your videos, thanks so much Staci. Your videos are much clearer and easy to understand than any I have found online.

    Comment by Jacqueline — January 15, 2013 @ 6:09 am

  52. Hi Jacqueline – the video is complete instruction, from start to finish, for the sweater. However, the pattern is necessary for the specifics of the pattern…like the cast-on numbers, repeats, etc for each size.

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — January 15, 2013 @ 7:32 am

  53. Hi Staci, thanks for the effort to demo the pattern. Couple questions. I need to take this up to a 54, maybe a 56. Your best reco on how to do this? Also, I overheat so need easy off & on with sweater. You see any reason not to work sweater as cardigan and just work icord edge bottom and use full length zipper? Thanks for your advice.

    Comment by KevinC — January 24, 2013 @ 9:30 am

  54. Hi Kevin – one of the beautiful things about top-down raglan sweaters is that you can continue with the raglan increases to get to whatever size you need. If you do this, you will no longer be able to use the specific instructions I give for maintaining the rib pattern, but it’s not that difficult to figure out.

    If you choose to make a cardigan instead of a pullover, you might want to watch how I work the icord edge down the front of the Women’s Zippered Letterman’s Jacket video.

    I can’t provide you with much support on modifications (I really need to write a new pattern and test knit it myself to confidently give you answers), but I hope these guidelines are enough to get you going.
    Good luck!
    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — January 24, 2013 @ 9:52 am

  55. Hi Staci-
    Are the decreases at the bottom of the body specific to the rib pattern? Should we still do them if we’re knitting the pattern in plain stockinette?

    Comment by Robyn — February 13, 2013 @ 7:59 pm

  56. Robyn – The decreases at the very bottom of the sweater are there just to prepare for the icord bind-off. Nothing to do with the ribbing.

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — February 13, 2013 @ 10:14 pm

  57. Staci, I’m a brand new knitter and have loved your videos – watch them over and over! I saw the Andes tweed and loved it, then found your tutorial, so I’m fired up to give this a try. I’m wondering how much ease this pattern has? My husband’s actual chest measurement is 48.5″ at the fullest part – not snug up under the arm, and I don’t want it to look baggy on him I were to make the XXL. Also, have you tried machine washing this?


    Comment by Tami — February 14, 2013 @ 11:49 pm

  58. Hi Tami – thanks for the note. The sweater has 2 inches of ease – you can see how it fits on the model. It is a casual fit.

    The yarn I used in the sweater is not machine washable! Hand wash only.

    You say that you are a brand new knitter – welcome to the club! This sweater may be too advanced for you, but it’s up to you to decide. Watch the videos, and see how comfortable you are with the techniques I demonstrate. If you feel you need more practice before you tackle this one, most my other sweater patterns are more easily handled by a newer knitter.

    Hope that helps. Good luck!

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — February 15, 2013 @ 12:03 am

  59. oh MY! You are the best teacher I’ve ever seen in action.
    I consider myself as an intermediate, and always try to learn more, but never met no-one, or read no book, here in italy – where craftsmanship is a business (and people try to keep their secrets) – that seems so confident and put things in a clear, straight and “simple” way, as you do with this tutorial.

    Also as a non-english-speaking I find your speech really easy to follow and ejoyable.
    Do you also provide in the pdf a metric conversion chart (like inches to centimeters)?

    Comment by gabriella — March 5, 2013 @ 6:04 am

  60. Hi Staci, I bought this sweater pattern and tutorial last week and I just got my yarn. I’m looking at the sizes and there is no 40″ chest size. My husband is 40″ and if I made the 38 it will be too small, and if I made the 42 it will be way to big. Why is there no 40? Is it a misprint. Help not sure which size to make. Thank you for your help. P.S. I love your videos. Becki

    Comment by Becki — April 4, 2013 @ 12:56 pm

  61. Hi Becki – don’t get caught up too much on the exact chest measurements. The model in the photo is a chest size 40″, and he wanted “ease” in the sweater, so I knit him the 42. The exact number of increases to work serves most people well, but when it comes down to it, you really need to slip the sweater on to scrap yarn to determine exactly when to separate for the sleeves. With a top-down raglan sweater, the wearer’s shoulder width comes in to play, too – so trying on is the best way to know you have a good fit.

    You have a choice here – to knit the 38″ or the 42″. I would decide based on your husbands neck – does he have a thinner or thicker neck? Because beyond the collar (cast-on), the exact size can be determined by you.

    Hope that helps!
    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — April 4, 2013 @ 4:42 pm

  62. It’s 2 weeks before my husbands birthday and he’s just declared that he only has 3 sweaters and they are all wearing thin. I would describe my skill level as intermediate and my speed as moderate. (I knit a pair of DK socks in 24 hours). Do you think I stand a chance of getting this knit up for him in time for his birthday?!

    Comment by Claire — April 6, 2013 @ 9:01 am

  63. Hi Claire – I can’t really answer that…it depends on how much time you have to devote to the sweater, and how big of a sweater you’ll need to knit to fit your husband. For most people, an adult sweater is going to be more than 40 hours of knitting.
    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — April 6, 2013 @ 9:15 am

  64. HI Staci,

    I am just finishing up the woman’s summer t shirt sweater pattern and watching the men’s sweater videos while I am knitting to get ready to tackle this one next. I also watched all the video for the zipper letterman jacket too and can’t wait to challenge myself with all that separate construction. Anyway, I love what Anne Boleyn is wearing. I searched all the comments to see if you said what pattern that is but maybe Im the first to ask. So what pattern is that gorgeous shawl/wrap?

    Comment by Jessa — May 29, 2013 @ 2:45 pm

  65. Hi Jessa – thank you for the note! Sorry, I didn’t list out the sweater pattern on Anne Boleyn. It isn’t my design, but it’s a great sweater pattern. You can find all the info to the project here:

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — May 29, 2013 @ 3:03 pm

  66. Hi Staci,

    I love this sweater pattern and your video instructions are so easy to follow! I do have a question about the sleeves. I am making the XL size and have separated the sleeves, done the backwards loop cast on (1 st) and knit one round. There seems to be a gap between where the sleeve will eventually come together and the first round I knit. Is this normal? I don’t want to continue if I did something that needs correcting.

    Comment by Kerri — May 30, 2013 @ 11:16 am

  67. Hi Kerri – don’t worry, what you’re experiencing is totally normal. When you knit top-down raglan sweaters, regardless of how perfect your tension is, you’ll always end up with small gaps under the arms. But never fear! You have ends to weave in there, and when you weave in the ends, you can close up those gaps. Totally normal and expected.

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — May 30, 2013 @ 8:28 pm

  68. Hi Stacy, is there instruction about sewing the zipper in? Regards, Petra

    Comment by Petra — May 31, 2013 @ 9:20 am

  69. Petra – yes. In the video, I cover how to turn the zipper into another “knitted piece”, so that it can be easily sewn in. You can watch that part of the video here:

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — May 31, 2013 @ 11:27 am

  70. I so love everything you show. Staci my grandson and grand-daughter’s husband have been begging me to knit a hoodie for them. I’m sure you must have a great pattern for me to follow.

    Comment by helene — June 7, 2013 @ 10:12 pm

  71. Hi. I just purchased this pattern to make for my son. I have not yet watched all the videos so I apologize if my question is already answered. My son is 6’9″. He has to wear a XXL Tall. I see the pattern goes up to XXL but how can I adapt for the length.
    Thank you for the beautiful pattern and the help. I can’t wait to get started.

    Comment by Kate — June 14, 2013 @ 6:33 am

  72. Kate – the pattern is easy to adapt for length. You’re just going to knit the body and sleeves longer. I don’t have yarn amount estimates for added length, so just be sure to have several more balls of yarn than the pattern calls for.

    That’s a lot of sweater you’re about to knit! Good luck.
    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — June 14, 2013 @ 6:52 am

  73. Yes, I am planning for large quantities of yarn! Thanks for the quick response!

    Comment by Kate — June 14, 2013 @ 7:24 am

  74. Hello again. As I mentioned in my earlier question, I am planning on making this for my very large son. Is there a way to change the weight of the yarn used? I am thinking it might knit up so much quicker in a bulky weight yarn.

    Comment by Kate — July 12, 2013 @ 5:38 am

  75. Kate – using a different weight yarn would require rewriting the pattern to accommodate the new gauge. Sorry. If you’re interested in making a men’s sweater in bulky yarn, I suggest you search Ravelry for a pattern that fits that bill. I’ve gone ahead and done a filtered search for you…all of these patterns are for adult men, and they all use Aran, Bulky, or Superbulky yarn:|aran|super-bulky&photo=yes&sort=popularity

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — July 12, 2013 @ 6:45 am

  76. Ciao Staci,
    I can’t belive it.I’ve just finished!!It’s my first sweater!!A lot of work but I’m very happy. I’ve learned a lot of things. I didn’t use the i-cord bind off for the sleeves and the body but the tubolar bind off and I used the tubolar bind off for knitting in flat because I don’t know how to work it in round.Is the procedure the same?(sorry for my english..)A big big big thank you Stacy,you are a wonderful teacher.

    Comment by Antonella — September 4, 2013 @ 9:56 am

  77. Good job, Antonella! To answer your question, yes – the tubular BO is worked the same, whether your work is flat, or in-the-round.

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — September 4, 2013 @ 10:01 am

  78. Hi Stacey

    Would like your help if possible. I’m about to embark on an Aran Sweater for my husband. I am going to use circulars (never have before) and need to know what length I should use. (there will be 129sts for 46″ chest. Would I use 24″ or 32″ length cable and is that including the needles? Many thanks. Carol.

    Comment by Carol (UK) — September 21, 2013 @ 5:36 pm

  79. Carol – I’ve never knit a sweater for a man with a 46″ chest! But you will be fine using 32″ needles. You can cram a TON of stitches on circulars, and 32″ will be comfortable. If the cord is too long for the beginning of the sweater (at the neck) you can always use the magic loop method to carry you through, until the stitches fit around the needles:

    Regarding actual cord/needle length – it varies with the different needle companies. They are usually measured from tip to tip, including needle…but they are also usually based on the metric system, and never really match up with inches.

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — September 21, 2013 @ 9:24 pm

  80. Hi, I love your videos (so thank you for them!) and I’m really excited to try this pattern which I have already purchased. I have just 1 question. It’s probably a silly one but its probably better I check. For the gauge you just say 5 sts = 1 inch and I was wondering if you obtained that with the size 6 or 7 needle? I’m sure its the 7 as you use that for the body but I want to check as I don’t want to put all this effort in and find out I made a stupid mistake.
    Thank you.

    Comment by Odette — November 5, 2013 @ 6:14 pm

  81. Not a silly question. :) The gauge is listed in the larger needle size.

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — November 5, 2013 @ 8:09 pm

  82. Hi Staci, I would like to knit this sweater for my dad he is a little bigger in the belly then in his chest, should I go up a size or will it fit him if I do the actual size of his chest?

    Comment by Melissa S — November 17, 2013 @ 3:19 pm

  83. Hi Melissa – yes. Since there is no shaping in a men’s sweater, for a most accurate fit, you will want to use whichever measurement is bigger (chest/belly) to choose the size you make. And since this sweater has no shoulder seams, the top of the sweater should still fit well.

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — November 17, 2013 @ 6:12 pm

  84. […] Sweater Modeled Image by S-t-e-v-e-n Awesome pattern, Staci! […]

    Pingback by Men’s Sweater Modeled | Knitting For Beginners — November 24, 2013 @ 1:40 am

  85. Hi,
    Great tutorials you have here!!! Can’t wait to get started! I have one question: how do i establish where to put the markers for the sleeves? Is there any trick?

    Thank you for the videos, they help a lot!

    Comment by Alexandra — November 28, 2013 @ 8:28 am

  86. Alexandra – the stitch marker placement is different for each size, and it’s explained in the pattern!

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — November 28, 2013 @ 8:34 am

  87. Thank you so much Staci! I promised my husband i’d knit him a sweater 15 years ago, with your help, i’ll have a nice surprise for him under the Christmas tree this year! :)

    Comment by Alexandra — November 28, 2013 @ 8:41 am

  88. Hi Staci! Thank you for yet another great pattern! I’m knitting this sweater for my dad, but using my husband as the model because my dad is bed-ridden. My husband is 6’1 and my dad is about 6’0-6’1. I measured the length of their arms from the underarm and came up with 19″ for both of them. This is a bit longer than your pattern. Would you recommend sticking to the length in your pattern, perhaps because the sleeves would “grow” once blocked, or should I knit to 19 inches instead? Thanks!

    Comment by Megan — November 29, 2013 @ 11:28 am

  89. Megan – it will depend on the yarn you’re using, and how it behaves once it’s blocked. The 100% wool I used in my sweater didn’t “give” much with blocking, so I knit the sleeves the exact length I wanted them. You will want to swatch, then wash and block your swatch to see if the knitted fabric stretches once it’s wet.

    Hope that helps!
    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — November 29, 2013 @ 1:30 pm

  90. Hi! I used WOTA merlot heather on the sweater. I knitted the sleeves to a little over 19 inches this weekend and they’re perfect. I don’t expect they’ll “grow” when I block the sweater.

    I have one more question, I accidentally skipped the decrease round when I bound off the hem. Now it is curled up. Can this be corrected during blocking, or should I rip out the I-cord bind off and fix the mistake? I did knit it correctly at the bottom of the sleeves. I appreciate your guidance!

    Comment by Megan — December 2, 2013 @ 5:22 pm

  91. Hi Megan – the decreasing at the bottom of the sweater has more to do with than anything else. With the yarn you used, the bottom hem should block out flat without curling. If I remember correctly, I actually pinned it flat and let it dry that way. Parker has worn the sweater for a couple of winters now, and the bottom hem has never tried to curl.

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — December 2, 2013 @ 5:51 pm

  92. Hi Staci! I love your videos and have really progressed in my knitting ability since finding your site and tutorials! I have purchased this pattern and am ready to buy the yarn. My husband hates wearing wool so I’m looking for a softer alternative. Would organic cotton work well for this pattern? Or, should I invest in 100% alpaca? Would 80% alpaca/20% acrylic blend work?
    Thanks again for all your great videos and help!

    Comment by Glynda O. — January 1, 2014 @ 2:26 pm

  93. Hi Glynda – I highly recommend using an animal fiber for this sweater, you’ll be much happier with the results! An alpaca, or an alpaca/acrylic blend will be very nice. It depends on the yarn, but cotton will add too much weight to this pattern, and make the sweater hang heavy.

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — January 1, 2014 @ 4:33 pm

  94. Thanks so much Staci! I will try the alpaca or alpaca/acrylic blend. I can’t wait to get started now!

    Comment by Glynda O. — January 1, 2014 @ 4:48 pm

  95. Hi Staci,

    I am workking on the mens sweater and I have a question on row 13. The increase gives me 8sts between marker.Am I wrong?


    Warm regards,

    Comment by Yanna — January 21, 2014 @ 10:52 pm

  96. Yanna – you should have more than 8 stitches between the markers, since you started with more than 8 stitches between the markers. Each increase round increases by 8 stitches – hopefully that answers your question!

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — January 21, 2014 @ 10:57 pm

  97. Thanks Staci,

    Have a wonderful day, since is 7:15 here Wednesday morning.

    Comment by Yanna — January 21, 2014 @ 11:21 pm

  98. Wow, I am really excited to get started on this sweater. I just started knitting so am a little intimidated right now but hopefully I will feel better about taking on such a big project in time to have it done by February 28th (my other half’s birthday). About how long does something like this typically take? THANKYOU!

    (hot model by the way)


    Comment by Amanda — January 31, 2014 @ 4:14 pm

  99. Amanda – it’s impossible for me to give a “typical” answer for how long this sweater takes. Adult sweaters usually take me about 40 hours to make, but that’s just me.
    I hope you love the pattern!
    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — January 31, 2014 @ 4:54 pm

  100. I don’t know how to read a pattern yet but will learn with this one. Purchasing now! :)

    Comment by Amanda — January 31, 2014 @ 5:06 pm

  101. Is there any chance of writing a pattern for a men’s sweater using a 5 ply yarn. As my son in law is quite small (often gets mistaken for a student) I find that a 10ply is too large for his frame. I have looked on ravelry and all men’s sweater appear to be the larger ply, with absolutely nothing in a finer knit.

    Comment by Virginia Wildeboer — February 7, 2014 @ 6:11 pm

  102. Virginia – I just did a filtered search on Ravelry for you…here is 185 men’s sweaters knit with 5 ply (sport weight) yarn. There is a nice selection!

    Hope that helps!
    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — February 7, 2014 @ 6:22 pm

  103. Almost done. It is SO beautiful. Just one quick question: At the bottom of the sleeves, before the I-cord bind-off, do I k2 together every ribbing panel as I did on the body before bind-off?

    Comment by Ann Cook — March 3, 2014 @ 5:13 pm

  104. Hi Ann – not necessary. The sleeves will hang straight without flaring without a decrease round.

    You’re almost finished!
    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — March 3, 2014 @ 5:17 pm

  105. I’m still “almost done,” but have another question. My husband definitely needs the short rows, but I’m confused by the instructions. I did the first w&t both RS & WS. The words that are confusing me are “wrapping every 4th stitch from your last wrapped stitch.” So I had done the w&t 3 stitches from the marker. Am I now doing the w&t 4 stitches from the last wrapped stitch?

    Thanks so much. I’d love to finish this before all cold weather disappears!

    Comment by Ann Cook — March 11, 2014 @ 7:16 pm

  106. Ann – counting from the last wrapped stitch, count 1, 2, 3 and wrap the next (4th) stitch. Does that help?

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — March 11, 2014 @ 7:33 pm

  107. Hi Staci,
    I’m about to embark on knitting this sweater but need to clarify the instructions for the raglan increases. I’m good up to and including Row 14. Then it says to “repeat these 14 rows until the work…”. So does that mean I continue the same pattern from rows 1 – 14, increasing the number of stitches before the markers on the odd rows? i.e. Row 15 would now have 9 stitches before the marker?

    Comment by David — March 19, 2014 @ 4:25 am

  108. David – yes, you repeat rows 1-14, then back to Row 1 after you finish 14, “until the work measures…”. That part is correct.

    The pattern is written so that the markers always stay in the correct place, and your rib always stays on track with the increases. The continued increases will give you more and more stitches between the markers.

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — March 19, 2014 @ 7:16 am

  109. Hi Staci, I am just starting this sweater and will be joining a new ball of yarn soon. I am using a super wash wool blend and need to join a new ball, where is the best place to do this? Thank you, Melissa.

    Comment by Melissa S — April 3, 2014 @ 3:37 pm

  110. Hi Melissa – you want to attach a new ball of yarn in the middle of one of the raglan increases (even if it’s not an increase row). The last place you’d want to do it is in a “sea of stockinette” where the evenness of the stitches could be disrupted. There is enough going on at the increases where it will hide any tension bloopers that come from attaching a new ball of superwash yarn.

    I hope you washed and blocked your swatch before you checked gauge! Superwash yarns are notorious for going nutso when when they get wet!
    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — April 3, 2014 @ 3:48 pm

  111. Staci, Thank you so much for all your help. I did wash and block my swatch before checking guage and had to go up another needle size.

    Comment by Melissa S — April 3, 2014 @ 4:08 pm

  112. Hello Staci,

    I’d love to start this project as my first sweater ever, because the video support would give me more courage in my first attempt.
    My question is: I’d like to make a traditional round-necked version of this pattern. Is there, by any chance, any variation in the PDF file I could use to make it?
    On the top of that: If I do not mistake, there are some evenly distributed purled stitches in the body and the sleeves, which I do not particularly adore. Could I go just plain stockinette stitch all around?
    Many thanks for your kind attention and help.
    You’re of great inspiration to all of us.

    Comment by Lucio — May 10, 2014 @ 7:35 am

  113. Lucio – I wish you the best of luck on your first sweater, but I’m afraid I can’t support modifications to my designs. (If I did, that would be ALL I did, all day, nothing else!) There are tons of mens sweater patterns available on Ravelry – hopefully you can find what you’re looking for, and perhaps you’ll find video support, too.

    You can read my Frequently Asked Questions page for more info:

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — May 10, 2014 @ 7:46 am

  114. That’s all right Staci,

    I will take it as it is. Your clarity and the quality of your teaching are worth more than any other pattern anywhere.
    And, to be perfectly frank, it’s not that I don’t like to collar. I am just afraid I dunno how to attach a zip .___.”

    Thanks so much and all the best!

    Comment by Lucio — May 10, 2014 @ 7:56 am

  115. Hi Staci, my question is as far as the swatch (sorry if this was asked before I read all the thread and I don’t think I found an answer to my question). I am knitting the sweater in an xtra large size, given the fact that you give the pattern with the exact measurements I wouldn’t have to do a swatch if I use exactly the yarn and needle size you described for this project?
    Thanks in advanced, you got gifted hands, mine as a guy are still mutating into the ability of knitting,. lol

    Comment by Matt — June 5, 2014 @ 2:38 pm

  116. Matt – yes, it is always important that you knit a gauge swatch, then wash and block your swatch, for each project. Even if you use identical yarns and needles, people knit with different tension. If your tension is slightly tighter than mine (the pattern designer, in this case), and you don’t adjust your needle size to get correct gauge, you will end up with a much smaller sweater than intended. And the reverse is true – if you are a looser knitter than me, you will end up with a huge sweater.

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — June 5, 2014 @ 5:32 pm

  117. Quick question for you…the pattern says that when you reach 12″ from CO ending after a RS row…in the video it looks like you are taking out the 3 sts on the knit side. Wouldn’t you be taking out the 3 sts on the purl/ws as written in the pattern or am I missing something? Thanks

    Comment by David — June 21, 2014 @ 2:16 pm

  118. David – you ended after a RS row, and you want to take out the last three stitches you just worked to continue. Knit side/purl side doesn’t really play into it – it’s just the last three stitches you worked on a RS row.

    Hope that helps!
    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — June 21, 2014 @ 2:32 pm

  119. One more question for you (hopefully I won’t have to bug you too much after this one). I’ve finished with knitting the 3 sts together and am now getting ready for the next rows/rounds. You indicate that we will need to work the 14 row pattern x number of times. It looks like that the first row/round will be #3 as there are 3 sts left before the first marker…do I have that correct? And then I would just count the rounds and number of sts required as indicated in the pattern.
    Hopefully I have this right ( I just assumed I would be starting with row/round #1 of the pattern)

    Comment by David — June 23, 2014 @ 5:16 am

  120. David – you can stop anywhere in the 14 row repeat to begin working in the round…what row did you leave off? You want to continue, in order, from the last row you worked.

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — June 23, 2014 @ 7:35 am

  121. Hi Staci,

    I’m almost at the point of separating the sleeves and noticed that your total stitch count are odd numbers. In checking, I have an even number and can’t see where there was any problems in my work. I would of thought that if we started with 116 sts and each round is 8 increases our number would always be even…is there something I’m missing ( my count is off by +1 from the pattern)

    Comment by David — June 26, 2014 @ 6:29 am

  122. David – I know the stitch count is correct, and without going back to the pattern, I think that it is odd because you turned six stitches into three at the very center panel of the stockinette, where you have 9 stitches.

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — June 26, 2014 @ 6:32 am

  123. Hi, Staci,
    I’m a pretty solid intermediate knitter, but I’m having a heck of a time at Row 14. Maybe I’m overthinking it or something. At the end of Row 13, the pearl stitch is 8 stitches from the marker (P1, K6, M1R, K1=8). Then on…..oh wow. By writing this out, I just realized that I was treating Row 14 as a regular ribbing row (despite your clear instructions to work in ribbing “EXCEPT ROW 14”!). Okay, so now I’m really writing to say that both my mom and I adore you and you’ve really helped me improve my knitting skills in a short amount of time — but apparently not my pattern reading skills!

    Comment by Nicole — August 15, 2014 @ 7:07 am

  124. Ha…thank you for the note, Nicole. I’m glad you got it figured out!
    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — August 15, 2014 @ 7:55 am

  125. Hi Staci, I have a question on the paragraph that starts by saying “work in pattern without increasing…” It’s after the separate the sleeves part when you are knitting the trunk/body of the sweater: it reads “Now you are finished increasing! Just work in pattern, knitting the knits and purling the purls, until your sweater measures 25 (26.5, 27, 27,28) *** so first question is until the sweater measures (X) amount of…what.?…inches?? If so, (X) amount of inches from where the ribbing starts at the neck the down or from right under the arm till you finish the I-cord bind off???
    Thank u in advance for answering my question.


    Comment by Matt — September 7, 2014 @ 11:27 pm

  126. Hi Staci,
    I am at the point where I have put the sleeve stitches back on my 16″ needle to begin knitting a sleeve. The pattern states to “pick up the same number of stitches under the arm as you CO when you separated the sleeves” (4 in my case). Where are these stitches/how do I “pick them up”? Thanks!

    Comment by Molly — September 11, 2014 @ 11:41 pm

  127. Molly – right at the center of the underarm, where you cast on a few stitches when you separated the sleeves. You want to use the technique called “pick up and knit” to pick up stitches there, over that gap:

    Hope that helps!
    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — September 12, 2014 @ 7:41 am

  128. Great Staci, thanks for the quick response and the link to the video. Very excited to be in the final stages of the sweater! It’s been so much fun to work on.

    Comment by Molly — September 12, 2014 @ 12:41 pm

  129. Hi Staci! I was just wondering if you knew of a simple way to convert this to a cabled sweater? My brother wants a cabled sweater but I just really love this pattern because it seems so simple as my first sweater :) I love all your patterns and videos by the way!

    Comment by Crimzyn — September 20, 2014 @ 12:10 pm

  130. Crimzyn – you can add cables wherever you like, it should be a simple thing to do. I’m always here to answer any questions you have on the pattern, but unfortunately, I can’t help you much with pattern modifications.

    Good luck!
    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — September 20, 2014 @ 3:13 pm

  131. Hi Staci.
    I’m knitting this great sweater pattern, and am just at 12 inches and ready to start to knit in the round. Your instructions say to do this after a RS row.
    I’m confused because your video shows the tink back and 3 needle bind off on the right side? Shouldn’t I do this after a wrong side row?
    Am missing something?

    Comment by Liz James — September 24, 2014 @ 5:53 pm

  132. HI again Staci.
    So, right after asking about the change to knitting in the round a lightbulb went off and I got it!!
    Thanks for your fabulous tutorials. I think I’ve watched every one of them!

    Comment by Liz James — September 24, 2014 @ 6:03 pm

  133. Oh dear, I seem to have messed up somehow.

    After starting to knit in the round, I was doing just fine with all the cable rows lining up nicely, and the raglan increases all tidy. Until I got to row 14 for the first time now that it’s all right side knitting. Following the instruction that two stitches before the marker I should knit one then purl one I end up with the purl bump in the wrong place. It seems it would be right if instead of knit one purl one before the marker it would be purl one knit one? I just can’t figure out what else it could be…..I even got graph paper out and drew it out, and thats the only thing that seems to make sense to me?

    Could it be I miscounted my rows? would that make it be off?


    Comment by Liz James — September 29, 2014 @ 1:19 pm

  134. Liz – the pattern is correct! I know Row 14 can seem counter-intuitive the first time around, but everything ends up lining up!

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — September 29, 2014 @ 1:26 pm

  135. Hi Staci,

    Can I use this pattern with a different yarn? I like the Capra DK Yarn from knitpicks. It’s almost the same gauge. 5 – 5.5 sts = 1″ instead of 4.5 – 5 sts = 1″ .


    Comment by George — October 6, 2014 @ 5:15 pm

  136. George – if you can get the correct gauge, you can use any yarn you like. I think the Capra yarn is thinner than the yarn used (DK vs Worsted), but if you get the correct gauge and like the fabric you’re creating, you’re good.

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — October 6, 2014 @ 5:19 pm

  137. Im getting ready to start knitting in the round but I am curious about the measurements. My icord is measuring 10 1/2 inches and my body is 11 1/2. Which measurement do you go by to determine the 12 inches before knitting in the round?

    Comment by Lindsey — October 7, 2014 @ 12:29 pm

  138. Lindsey – measure at the icord, since that is where the zipper will go in.

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — October 7, 2014 @ 1:30 pm

  139. Dear Staci,

    I am knitting your wonderful jumper for my husband. His chest and belly measurements are both 39 to 39.5inches and he wants a loose fitting jumper, like the model in this photo. I was thinking of knitting him the medium size but am now not sure if that’s a good choice or if I should knit him the next size up. What would you advise me?

    Many thanks,

    Comment by Anna — October 12, 2014 @ 1:14 am

  140. Anna – the medium size is probably best for him, it will still be loose-fitting.

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — October 12, 2014 @ 8:08 am

  141. i have reached the point where I start to work on trunk of sweater. I counted up stitches and I have way too many! Following the 14 rows aren’t I increasing 8 stitches every other row? What am I doing wrong???

    Comment by Kathy Faba — October 15, 2014 @ 8:45 am

  142. Kathy – sorry you’re having trouble. I don’t know where you might have gone astray, but yes – there are 8 increases, every other row. The numbers given in the pattern are correct. I hope you are able to discover the issue soon!

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — October 15, 2014 @ 8:51 am

  143. I was increasing for the length of the zipper. I was also increasing for the working in the round part. Was that right? If I add the increases from working in the round to the 116 I started with that gets me to about the 353 for medium. But I was also increasing for the length of the zipper. Was that wrong?

    Comment by Kathy Faba — October 15, 2014 @ 9:32 am

  144. Kathy – I’m not sure if I understand what you’re saying, but the only increase points are at the markers, not at the zipper opening.

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — October 15, 2014 @ 10:01 am

  145. My dad has a 40″ chest; would the medium with the 2″ ease make it a good fit, or would you recommend going up a size? (Sorry I ask this for every pattern, guess it hasn’t clicked for me yet!)

    Comment by Sam — October 15, 2014 @ 9:08 pm

  146. Sam – your best bet is to measure a sweater that he already owns, and likes the fit of. Then replicate that size.

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — October 15, 2014 @ 9:33 pm

  147. Dear Staci, I’m currently knitting this pattern. Many thanks for your amazing instructions. I am knitting the medium size and am starting the last 4 rows. However, I am one stitch short and will end up on 352 instead of 353 stitches. I checked all the ribbing and I also counted the number of stitches at the increases and I can’t find for the life of me where I lost a stitch. Do you think it matters hugely that I’m short of just 1? Thank you for your help. I really don’t want to mess this up!

    Comment by Karen — October 24, 2014 @ 4:17 pm

  148. Karen – one stitch won’t make any difference at all in the circumference of an entire sweater, but it will throw your ribbing off. If you find the place where the ribbing is off, just add a stitch there – then forget about it! No one will be the wiser. :)

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — October 24, 2014 @ 4:26 pm

  149. Hey I’m confused when you said you must block the sweater what does that mean?

    Comment by LAG_Z — October 30, 2014 @ 2:03 am

  150. Lag_z – that means to wash (following the instructions on the yarn label) and set out flat to dry. Here is a photo tutorial:

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — October 30, 2014 @ 6:45 am

  151. Hi Staci
    It’s amazing how much I am learning from you after over 60 years of knitting. Thank you so much.
    Do you have a pattern or video for the jacket (sweater)on the mannequin in your video “How to Knit a Man’s Sweater”? If so please let me know where I can get it.
    Sandra in Montreal

    Comment by Sandra K. — November 23, 2014 @ 3:19 pm

  152. Sandra – it isn’t my design, but you can find the pattern for that sweater here:

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — November 23, 2014 @ 3:26 pm

  153. Hi Staci, my pattern says to co 3 stitches onto the left needle to begin the icord bind off. My yarn is coming off the right needle of my circular needles. When I cast onto the left needle the yarn is then coming off of the left needle. When I knit those first 2 stitches I have a large gap between the co stitches and the old stitches. I think I am missing something here?

    Comment by Denise Hines — February 14, 2015 @ 6:09 pm

  154. Denise – it’s a tight squeeze, but you can do it! It’s best to sit at a table, where the weight of the sweater is supported. The needles will be very close together while you do this, but you’ll get it!

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — February 14, 2015 @ 6:25 pm

  155. Hi Staci. Can I modify the bottom and cuffs of this sweater to a 2 inch rib, keeping in mind the overall total lengths of both? Thanks.

    Comment by Kate — February 21, 2015 @ 6:49 pm

  156. And, if I can, do I still need to do the decrease row before I begin?

    Comment by Kate — February 21, 2015 @ 8:38 pm

  157. Kate – I haven’t test knit the sweater with those modifications, and I can’t really help you with pattern mods. Should be a simple enough change, however. Good luck!

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — February 21, 2015 @ 8:46 pm

  158. Hi Staci, thanks so much for this great pattern and video. Do I block the sweater before I sew the bias tape on the neck or after? I am almost done and very pleased with how this sweater turned out. It’s for my husband and he loves it! Thanks.

    Comment by Denise Hines — April 10, 2015 @ 12:49 pm

  159. Denise – block the sweater before you put the bias tape in! You want the neckline to be its actual blocked size before you “cement” it down with bias tape.

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — April 10, 2015 @ 1:09 pm

  160. Stacy, you are THE BEST! I just finished the Toddler first sweater, it was easy and so so cute! Everyone loves it! So deep breath…I’m going to make an attempt at the Big Time! Your videos are so helpful, especially for all of us Visual Learners….. Here I go……

    Comment by marcia — April 13, 2015 @ 2:06 pm

  161. Stacy….Can I use stockingknit instead of the 6-1 ribbing?

    Comment by marcia — April 16, 2015 @ 9:08 am

  162. Marcia – you can, but you’d have to rewrite much of the pattern to accommodate the new gauge. Stockinette stitch is a different gauge than the rib used in this sweater. If it’s important for you to use stockinette, you might find it easier to search Ravelry for a mens’ sweater that is written in stockinette (rather than rewriting this one).

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — April 16, 2015 @ 9:31 am

  163. Hi Staci,
    Thanks for your quick responses. The sweater is going along fine! I’m nearly done with the body and am very excited. I’m wondering what is the best way to block? Did you use the steam or wet method? The ribbing on the neck seems a little tight, how much can I stretch it in the blocking process? Sorry for all the questions. This is my first big project! Thanks for the great videos and email help….

    Comment by marcia — May 4, 2015 @ 12:04 am

  164. Marica – follow the washing instructions on your yarn label, and set out flat to dry to match pattern measurements.

    S t a c i

    Comment by s t a c i — May 4, 2015 @ 6:14 am

RSS feed for comments on this post. TrackBack URL

Leave a comment